Of all the places I’ve lived...and there have been many...I’ve always viewed San Francisco as the epitome of “anything goes” when it comes to fashion. So I was surprised to read Carl Nolte’s “Native Son” column in this Sunday’s San Francisco Chronicle.
Nolte reported that author Danielle Steel has left San Francisco, and on her way out she commented, “There’s no style, nobody dresses up - you can’t be chic there. I don’t think people really care how they look there.”
Steel lamented that the people of this ever-trendy city have lost their sense of style...and Nolte agreed. When it comes to how people in San Francisco dress, Nolte bemoaned, “anything goes.”
Nolte took it upon himself to conduct an informal survey in the city’s financial district and found, to his chagrin, that only around ten percent of the men he came across were wearing neckties. He seemed stunned that downtown restaurants that used to refuse to serve patrons not “appropriately” suited and tied were now serving customers dressed as if they were eating at a Denny’s.
After reading Nolte’s column, I wondered why he or anyone else, other than old stuffies like George F. Will and Daniel Akst, who believe denim jeans are the work of the devil, would care all that much about how slylishly other people dress. Why, in this day and age of “anything goes,” would anyone find more casual attire troubling?
I suppose those associated with the fashion industry would care. Did you know that more than $1 billion is spent annually on men’s neckties in the United States? That’s quite a chunk of change and something that might motivate those in the necktie-as-a-fashion-statement industry to make sure ties remain de rigueur business attire.
But why the tie, I wondered. In the interest of full disclosure, no one has ever accused me of being a fashion tree. Quite frankly, I am anything but stylish. I’m a jeans and sneakers kind of a guy. I hate wearing ties. To me, the tie is a useless, unnecessary item of clothing.
Seriously, what purpose does a necktie serve, other than to chafe the neck or constrict blood flow to the brain? Does a suit and tie render someone more competent and professional than someone in an open-collared shirt and sport coat?
Apparently so, declared Karen Hughes in an article, “Bring it on - business casual is DEAD.” In her article for Womenetics, Ms. Hughes wrote, “In order to be successful, one must ‘look’ and ‘act’ successful.”
That sentiment reminded me of Billy Crystal’s SNL character Fernando, who used to say, in Crystal’s dead-on take off of Fernando Lamas, “You look mahveleous...and you know it’s better to look good than to feel good.” Ms. Hughes attitude reeks of “it’s not how good you are, it’s how good you look.”
The tie as a phallic symbol
So what is the deal with ties? My extensive research confirmed that the tie is essentially a phallic symbol. I’m not kidding you. According to Rita Hutner in Catalogs.com, men’s neckties direct the viewer’s eyes downward toward the man’s genitals. Hutner claims, “the guy is subtly showing off.” Seriously, Rita?
In researching the history of ties I found out that ties first appeared in 221 BC when military men of China’s first emperor, Shin Huang Ti, were buried wearing neckties. Once you’re dead, it’s a little late to be drawing the eye toward your crotch, huh Rita?
It was in the 1600s when neckwear for men became somewhat fashionable in Europe after the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), when Croatian mercenaries wore small, knotted neckerchiefs. These “cravats” become a fashion craze in Paris. In 1784, Beau Brummel, an English authority on men’s fashion, associated a neck cloth with individuality and self expression.
The modern necktie was born in the 1920s when a long, thin, easy to knot tie that would not come undone was introduced. And, up until a decade or so ago, the necktie continued to be the standard attire for white collar workers throughout the Western world...until someone finally asked “why?” and casual, tieless attire became acceptable at the office.
Hold that thought. Corporate America appears to be reverting to “more traditional” dress codes. According to an article, Revenge of the Tie, “business sloppy” is out, suits and ties are in. Oh damn!
While I still don’t have to wear a tie on those rare occasions when I have to show face at the office...not yet, anyway...lately I have been requested to wear a tie on virtually every visit to a prospective client, even for those companies that have embraced “business sloppy.”
I know you’re supposed to dress for the occasion, but seriously, folks, is it really such a good idea to wear an accessory that draws the eyes of those attending the meeting toward your genitals?
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